Journal Entry: June 3, 2010 – 100 Mile Wilderness

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Day 5

Rain.

The storm did not pass in the night as I was hoping.  The day was a blur.  The scenery was a blur.

Limp Along and I leap frogged all day.  The reality of my non-waterproof pants soaked in and chilled me.  It crept down under my gators, my boots and waterlogged my socks.  I’d like to say the scenery was beautiful but the rain and cold had me focused and introspective.  It was a grueling 8-mile hike.

Before leaving the site, I devised a way to keep most of the water from soaking my pack.  Two-thirds of a blue poncho, among other things, had been abandoned at the Rainbow Streams Lean-to.  I used it to make rain cover with one knot and strategic strap tucking.  It wasn’t pretty but functioned perfectly in preventing that extra water weight from accumulating and soaking my pants.

At one point the trail opened up onto a logging road.  Limp Along and I are pacing each other, about 30-feet apart.  It’s a slow steady incline, pouring, and the mosquitos are still a bother requiring netting.  We both came to the realization that something was a-miss.

“I think we missed the trail re-entry but it appears as though this logging road loops back into it further ahead.” Limp Along pointed to the line of the logging road when I reached him.  “Can you get my water bottle from the side of my pack and hand it to me?”

He put the map away and I handed him his water bottle.  He took a deep drink and then I put it back in the netted pocket on the side of his pack.  We continued on and sure enough, the trail’s entry appeared.  The logging road had looped and the trail cut across it twice.

We reached the Wadleigh Streams Lean-to just after 2 p.m. and decided to call it an early day.  The rain had not let up.  The lean-to was a welcome relief from it.

A couple appeared around 4 p.m.-ish, Just Bob and Trout.  Shortly after their arrival there is a reprieve from the rain for a few hours.  Some wood and tinder had been placed under the lean-to overhang and Just Bob got a fire going.  Trout and I strung up a blue nylon cord I had brought to dry our clothing and socks.  We stood up two large soaked logs and ran the cord back and forth four or five times.  It was a beautiful sight, the steam rising from the boots arranged around the fire pit to dry.

Just Bob and Trout looked to be near my age, probably a a couple years younger.  He was a military veteran and she was a semi-pro cross country ski competitor.  Trout said one day Just Bob had called and said, “Let’s hike the 100 Mile Wilderness.”  They shared some crystallized ginger with me, a welcome treat.  Both were quite taken with Maxwell and greeted him quite enthusiastically.

Limp Along had gone straight to bed, skipping an evening meal and did not stir until almost 8 p.m.  He did not say a word when he got up and quickly headed away from the lean-to.  I assume the privy.  He was gone a while and when he returned he went straight back to bed.  He didn’t introduce himself and said he was was feeling unwell.  I asked him if he’d like me to put his boots near the fire to dry.  He thanked me and then turned over and away in his sleeping bag.

Sometime in the middle of the night I heard the rain start up again.  It must have been around midnight or earlier.  Trout heard it too.  We both crawled out of our sleeping bags and rescued all the gear we’d left to dry by the out fire.

I had studied Pete Mason’s maps before going to sleep.  My sights were set on reaching the Antlers Tent Campsite tomorrow.  It would be a huge push.  If the weather was accommodating it’d be well worth it.

 

Distance: about 8.4-miles

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Journal Entry: June 2, 2010 – The 100 Mile Wilderness

Wednesday , June 2, 2010

Day 4

Woke up sometime before 5:30 a.m. to the sound of rustling plastic.

Mouse!  In my food!

I scrambled and pulled everything out to see what damage had been done.  Thankfully not much.  There were two holes chewed through two different bags of dried fruit and nuts.  Maxwell did not move once.  My little ratter.  I put everything in a spare garbage bag near my head.  When I looked up the little culprit was in front of me and headed back for seconds.  It ran when I reached for my pack.  Cute little bugger.

Up and headed around 7:00 a.m.  Today was a grueling one.  I hiked 11.5 miles, according to my map, from the Hurd Shelter to the Rainbow Streams Lean-to.  We walked through a multitude of ever-changing forest realities.  The bugs were out and thick.  I wore mosquito netting all day and sweated.

Stopped mid-day to rearrange gear.  My pack is heavy heavy.  Maxwell got the first aid kit and his rain jacket to carry.  Little pack dog.  I decided to drop some gear.  An easy decision.  I left soaked pink Nike sweatpants neatly folded on a downed tree.  Good-bye 10-lbs of dead weight.

The rest of the afternoon I leap-frogged with Limp Along.  Back and forth.  The two miles prior to reaching the lean-to was all mud, gnarly tree roots and swarms of insects.  Limp Along sat down on a rock and I continued on ahead.  At one point, I looked out through the trees to the lake on my right hearing voices on the water.  Was I hallucinating?  A canoe with two men in it paced me and then it paddled off, disappearing.  I paid it little mind.  I focused on picking my way carefully, steadily along the rooty trail.

The light was disappearing.  I was in a haze.  Then suddenly a gray shining rectangle appeared in my line of sight.  I blinked twice wondering if it was a mirage.  I tamped down that feeling of excitement and relief as I approached, just in case.  It was the lean-to.  Relief.  I thought back to the moose, seen earlier in the afternoon crossing the shallower open water, and smiled.

 

Distance: about 11.5 miles

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Journal Entry: August 8, 2010 – Skamping

My ambitions are better served each day, in busying myself foraging for food water and shelter, the three necessities to maintain existence, rather than money or fame; on which no living thing can be nourished, nor provide protection from the uncontrollable conditions of Nature. And so begins my stay in the Skamper. Surrounded by an urban jungle, a tight residential sprawl of gridded quarter-acre lots.
The residents manicure the landscape encouraging an unnatural subdivision, pointedly placing tree, shrub and fence; a false and wistful re-creation expressing the desire for Nature and solitude. Conditioned to this visual and social ‘norm’, people have no conceptual imagination and understanding that their environment could be quite diametrically different if they chose. It is strange to me, to agree so easily to another’s visions and perceptions without contemplating it first. To examine the details, to perform a careful comparison and study before reaching a then informed conclusion. A realization that every decisive action reflects a personal choice made, for every situation and circumstance. And allowing others to make those decisions for you will never facilitate a contentment of the soul and true happiness.
There are rare moments of natural silence in this environment. I hear the engine of a lawn mower hum steadily. A small airplane flying low overhead. The whistle warning of a passing Amtrak train. Cars driving by, a man sneezing, a teenage girl screaming angrily at her father and slamming doors. The constant whir of a window air conditioner. If a noise must be at a constant, let it be the water flowing over rocks and the wind in the trees. My heart is melancholy for the pure sounds of the wilderness.
This cozy 8’x20′ area contains everything I require to live. A sleeping space, a counter and sink, a table and benches for friends and company. I am off-the-grid. I live without electricity and running water; an independent and alternative existence, a staunch refusal and repudiation of relying upon modern technology. There is a small television occupying a large portion of the counter which I will be pleased to see go. For now it serves as a mirror and shelf for a few items. For some, this picture box is an imagined necessity. In fact it provides no real value to living or enrichment of the mind. I take my light from the sun or by candle, water from a nearby source, pleasure in my own company and entertainment in my own thoughts.
Some friends are enchanted with the idea of how I live. Some find it bizarre and their discomfort manifests itself in their conversation and body language. When some visit, they are afraid, at times, to enter or stay long. Their inhibition Pavlovian.
I leave the door open and unlocked. I have nothing to hide. There is no possession I value so much as to miss its presence if it were to disappear. Some ask if that picture box and a small refrigerator are hooked up to electricity. Does the sink provide running water? They grow silent when I answer, “No.” and then ask me, “Why?” Why ask why? The answer is so obviously and simply that I do not care to have it so.
In this Age of the Ownership, my lifestyle and words are strangely foreign. The concept of money is a grave travesty. I find nothing so uninteresting as the conversation which begins with the question, “What do you do for work?” And the presence of those who wave about a bill roll of dead trees with symmetrical markings utterly disagreeable. The very word and concept ‘value’ simply distasteful in its inherent hierarchical definition and use in judgement. People today are not so very different from those that existed centuries ago. The majority of the population exist as indentured servants. The distraction of the Colliseum a button push away in every living room. How cleverly slavery has been re-conceptualized, presented, with the escapist elements of distraction well woven in the fabric of what some call ‘ciivilized society’.
To busy oneself day-to-day with the hunt. To understand the foolishness and imminent disappointment of expectations. To appreciate all living things, plant animal and human being, knowing each are equally deserving of respect and a right to existence. To actively exemplify these thoughts addressing the truly important aspects of living through one’s actions. These are the foundations of happiness. These are the cornerstones of enlightened realizations. Ah, what joy to Skamp and live free!

Journal Entry: August 2, 2010 – My Biography According to Henry David Thoreau | Fun & Games

My Biography According to Henry David Thoreau

Transcendental Thoughts:

We must learn to reawaken and keep ourselves awake, not by mechanical aids but by an infinite expectation of the dawn, which does not forsake us in our soundest sleep.  I know of no more encouraging fact than the unquestionable ability of man to elevate his life by conscious endeavor. It is something to be to paint a particular picture, or to carve a statue, and so to make a few objects beautiful, but it is more glorious to carve and paint the very atmosphere and medium through which we look, which we morally can do. To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts. (W)

On Being Oneself:

I cannot tell you what I am, more than a ray of the summer’s sun.
What I am I am, and say not. Being is the great explainer.

I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, to discover that I had not lived. I did not wish to live what was not life, living is so dear; nor did I wish to practice resignation, unless it was quite necessary. I wanted to live deep and suck out all the marrow of life, to live so sturdily and Spartan-like as to put to rout all that was not life, to cut a broad swath and shave close, to drive life into a corner, and reduce it to its lowest terms, and, if it proved to be mean, why then to get the whole and genuine meanness of it, and publish its meanness to the world; or if it were sublime, to know it by experience, and to be able to give a true account of it in my next excursion.

On Communication and Relationship:
The greatest compliment that was ever paid me was when one asked me what I thought, and attended to my answer. (LWP)

On Work:

How trivial and uninteresting and wearisome and unsatisfactory are all employments for which men will pay you money!

If I should sell both my forenoons and afternoons to society, as most appear to do, I am sure that for me there would be nothing left worth living for. I trust that I shall never thus sell my birthright for a mess of pottage. I wish to suggest that a man may be very industrious, and yet not spend his time well. There is no more fatal blunderer than he who consumes the greater part of his life getting his living. All great enterprises are self-supporting. The poet, for instance, must sustain his body by his poetry, as a steam planing-mill feeds its boilers with the shavings it makes. You must get your living by loving. (LWP)

It is remarkable that there is little or nothing to be remembered written on the subject of getting a living; how to make getting a living not merely holiest and honorable, but altogether inviting and glorious; for if getting a living is not so, then living is not. One would think, from looking at literature, that this question had never disturbed a solitary individual’s musings. Is it that men are too much disgusted with their experience to speak of it? The lesson of value which money teaches, which the Author of the Universe has taken so much pains to teach us, we are inclined to skip altogether. As for the means of living, it is wonderful how indifferent men of all classes are about it, even reformers, so called- whether they inherit, or earn, or steal it. I think that Society has done nothing for us in this respect, or at least has undone what she has done. Cold and hunger seem more friendly to my nature than those methods which men have adopted and advise to ward them off. (LWP)

I learned this, at least, by my experiment: that if one advances confidently in the direction of his dreams, and endeavors to live the life which he had imagined, he will meet with a success unexpected in common hours.

On Business:

If a man has spent all his days about some business, by which he has merely got to be rich, as it is called, i.e., has got much money, many houses and barns and woodlots, then his life has been a failure, I think; but if he has been trying to better his condition in a higher sense than this, has been trying to invent something, to be somebody, – i.e., to invent and get a patent for himself – so that all may see his originality, though he should never get above board – and great inventors, you know, commonly die poor – I shall think him comparatively successful.

If a man walk in the woods for love of them half of each day, he is in danger of being regarded as a loafer; but if he spends his whole day as a speculator, shearing off those woods and making earth bald before her time, he is esteemed an industrious and enterprising citizen. As if a town had no interest in its forests but to cut them down!(LWP)

On Truth:

If we have thus desecrated ourselves- as who has not?- the remedy will be by wariness and devotion to reconsecrate ourselves, and make once more a fane of the mind. We should treat our minds, that is, ourselves, as innocent and ingenuous children, whose guardians we are, and be careful what objects and what subjects we thrust on their attention. Read not the Times. Read the Eternities. Conventionalities are at length as had as impurities. Even the facts of science may dust the mind by their dryness, unless they are in a sense effaced each morning, or rather rendered fertile by the dews of fresh and living truth. Knowledge does not come to us by details, but in flashes of light from heaven. Yes, every thought that passes through the mind helps to wear and tear it, and to deepen the ruts….(LWP)

On Freedom:

We are provincial, because we do not find at home our standards; because we do not worship truth, but the reflection of truth; because we are warped and narrowed by an exclusive devotion to trade and commerce and manufactures and agriculture and the like, which are but means, and not the end.(LWP)

On Politics:

Those things which now most engage the attention of men, as politics and the daily routine, are, it is true, vital functions of human society, but should be unconsciously performed, like the corresponding functions of the physical body. They are infrahuman, a kind of vegetation. I sometimes awake to a half-consciousness of them going on about me, as a man may become conscious of some of the processes of digestion in a morbid state, and so have the dyspepsia, as it is called. It is as if a thinker submitted himself to be rasped by the great gizzard of creation. Politics is, as it were, the gizzard of society, full of grit and gravel, and the two political parties are its two opposite halves- sometimes split into quarters, it may be, which grind on each other. Not only individuals, but states, have thus a confirmed dyspepsia, which expresses itself, you can imagine by what sort of eloquence. Thus our life is not altogether a forgetting, but also, alas! to a great extent, a remembering, of that which we should never have been conscious of, certainly not in our waking hours. Why should we not meet, not always as dyspeptics, to tell our bad dreams, but sometimes as eupeptics, to congratulate each other on the ever-glorious morning? I do not make an exorbitant demand, surely.(LWP)

Journal Entry: May 31, 2010 – Hiking from Katahdin to the 100 Mile Wilderness

Monday May 31, 2010

Day 2

I got up and was headed at 7:30 a.m. this morning.

The Ranger at Katahdin Streams Campground said he climbs Mt. Katahdin four or five times a year.  He has been working at Baxter State park for 20 years now.  I’m working off old maps that a friend, Pete Mason had lent me for the hike.  The Ranger pointed out a change, the A.T. had been re-routed through the Grassy POnd Trail since they had been printed.  And in spite of dumping 10-lbs of dead weight, my pack is heavy.  I read in the Appalachian Trail Guide that ‘every ounce counts’ which is all too true.  I purposefully neglected adding the two liters of water in my pack when I had weighed in again.

It was a warm and sunny day.  There were multiple spots along the Nesouadnehunk Stream that invited a swim.  Around noon, I come across one that I just can’t resist and decided to stop for lunch.  After eating, I decided to take advantage of the sandy beach and wash my hair.  I haven’t bathed in three days.

I put on my bathing suit, the trail runs quite close by to the section of stream.  Maxwell had found a soft sandy pit trapped on the rocks to lounge.  When I jumped in he lifted his head up, looked at me then lay back down.

The water was frigid.  It took three attempts before I could completely submerge myself.  I scrubbed handfuls of sand into my scalp and across my skin.  It took my breath away.  When I’m done my skin aches painfully from the cold.

Too chilled to care, I strip out of my bathing suit and lay it next to me on the rocks.  I let the sun and warm breeze dry me off.  I trimmed my toenails, shorter than usual.  They had been pressing hard against the front of my boots with every step downhill.

Just as Maxwell and I were about to head back to the trail, I noticed a discarded walking stick lying on a rock nearby.  Thank goodness for that stick!  An hour later we reached a cross-path and a sign reading ‘High Water Bypass 0.9 miles’.  And indeed the water was high.  It had rained last evening and the rocks and rushing water looked treacherous.  But the thought of going a mile out of the way quickly dissipated when I recalled a slower shallow sandy section a short ways upstream.  I back-tracked along the trail, pulled my pants up above my knees, slung my gaitors and boots around my neck, and forded the river with that stick to balance myself against the current.

I was already three-quarters of the way across when I remembered Maxwell.  He was on the leash and dislikes water.  There he was though, behind me swimming like a champ.  We walked out onto a small island, or what we thought was a small island.  We continued across, this section was deeper than the first but equally paced in its flow.

After an hour of hiking downstream searching for the trail’s intersection I slowly began to realize something was not right.  We came upon a small sandy beach and I dropped gear to take a break.  I left Maxwell and the pack and hiked further along the stream which had been growing in width and depth.  I could not find the trail.  I went back to the beach and sat down.  It was getting late in the day and time was a-wasting.  I considered camping at this spot for the evening. It was already 3:30 p.m. or so.  Instead, I went back to my original crossing spot and waded to the ‘island’.  My hunch was that the trail continued on the island.  Sure enough, it split the stream and with a little bush-whacking I found the path and the white blazes.

We hiked until 4:30 p.m. stopping when we came to a nice wide ledge opening covered in pine needles, overlooking a roaring waterfall.  The sky was beginning to gray up and I worried about the possibility of rain.  I know my limits and I had reached them for today.  The frustration of getting lost weighted my already heavy pack.  My shoulders and back aching.  My feet sore from fording the pebbly river bare.  I set up camp, ate dinner and settled to bed.  Only thing is, I’m not sure if I’m out of Baxter State Park at this point.  I’m too tired to care.

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Distance:  about 4.5 miles

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